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John Makayak Hickes is never happier than when he
John Makayak Hickes is never happier than when he's with his dogs. (PHOTO BY THOMAS ROHNER) - Rankin Inlet, Nunavut
Nunavut man pours love, time into sled dogs and training

John Makayak Hickes is in his happy place.

Surrounded by 30-odd sled dogs in front of Nanuq Lodge in Rankin Inlet, Hickes smiles as he walks along the rows of doghouses.

The dogs, straining at the chains that tether them to their individual homes, greet Hickes, who towers over them, with barks, yelps and frothy wet tongues.

It’s feeding time—a tense and chaotic scene for anyone not used to being surrounded by so many dogs.

But the animals show no aggression as Hickes tows a big rubber bin filled with a stew only a dog would love: big hunks of ham and Arctic char bob up and down in a broth made thick with soggy dog food.


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