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T O P I C    R E V I E W
EllieRose Posted - 12/07/2007 : 4:19:38 PM
Well we're taking the leap and building a dog box to go on my Ranger. Obviously by the size of my truck it's going to be a smaller box- 6 boxes, small storage space and will sit on top of the truck box. Any recommendations on how to attach it to the box of the truck?
13   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
Qimmiq Posted - 09/13/2017 : 5:00:14 PM
Check out this pictorial: https://www.sleddogcentral.com/innovations/07adma_winners/hamilton.htm

It's on a Ford Ranger. For more details, contact us.
kissAnew Posted - 09/06/2017 : 08:31:12 AM
[quote]Originally posted by kissAnew

The answer to your problem is somewhat relevant to year of Ranger. Some of the newer ones have them little "thingies" riveted to the int. walls of the box front&back. Simple solution....rachetstraps. I've done it on my F150 short box.

Some of us ain't so lucky as to have a truck strictly delegated to "mushing" and some of us are. I have a 85 Ranger long box for just the reason Chuck has stated. It has a 5'X7'4" 6 (30"Dx26.5"Wx24"H)hole unit that is bolted right to the box 'rails'. Attached under the unit is "Jolene Giese's Equipment Hangers" from SDC's 'Innovations'. I made a 80"Lx20"Wx15"D equipment box, 1/2"pine btm w/2x2 sliders and 3/8"sides. It has handles and although I've considered a lid on the box and plastic hose on the sliders I've not got around to it yet. Any ways.. 2 sleds on the roof, open the tailgate and' "Volia", dishes, harnesses, staging and picket lines, food...and ????? for up to 12 dogs.
I also have a 2500lb sngl axle trailer wth a 4'X12' deck that has a 4'X8' 6(24"DX32"WX24"H) hole unit lengthwise at rear and a 4'X8' 4(36"DX24WX24"H)hole unit crosswise up front. These 2 seperate units are bolted to the pressure treated 3/4" toungue&groove plywood deck. Of course they're removable wth some work.
I have a third box 8(36"Dx24"Wx24"H) hole, so 6'X8' that I can put on the "ex-camper" trailer wth a 1500lb axle or slide into the back of a long box truck.
All are made with 1/2" pine plywood btm, top and sides that has been varnished and or painted. All interior walls/seperators are 3/8" plywood untreated/stained/painted/varnished.
They're relatively heavy/light(depending on individual), but even tho' I'm almost 60, I've done prettymuch everything by myself since I was a kid (13) so it comes second nature to do it now.
I've built "stands" from treated fence posts and lumber just high enough to back the truck up to and use steel pipes on 4x4's to roll the units onto the "stands". It's actually pretty simple and easy once I've done it a cpl times. Over the years I've gotten a few bruises, abrasions, cuts and a few busted bones(not all from mushing tho') but "I didn't get all smashed up sitting on the couch playing video games".
By the way I can be quoted on that "....". It's an encouragement to love living life to the max.

ChuckCubbison Posted - 10/03/2016 : 7:16:45 PM
quote:
Originally posted by balzakjeff

Anybody come up with slick way to make boxes easy to remove for summer? Anybody set one up like a pickup camper with bar under the truck and jacks to make it easy to remove?



While it's so tempting to take the box off in the summer, I would recommend that everyone seriously consider keeping their box on year-round, in case you need to evacuate your kennel...or, perhaps, help out another musher in your area who needs to do so. Whether it's from wildfire, flood, hurricane, chemical spill, or whatever, there is virtually no one that is immune to something like this happening. Even if you have a rather quick way of putting it back on, do you really want to take the extra time when a fire is breathing down your back?
dranikjo Posted - 10/03/2016 : 07:44:39 AM
New dog box built but looking for suggestions and a pic on how to attached to bed of pick up. Thanks!
Old Geezer Posted - 04/10/2016 : 09:00:54 AM
One of the best dog boxes I ever had was designed like a truck camper. I added a box underneath the dog box, added camper jacks. Way easy to put on and off. It was only a six dog box with rear storage compartment so the added box underneath gave me added storage for large longer items. Never had to bolt of strap anything. The wheel wells held it in place.
Razor Posted - 04/08/2016 : 03:50:04 AM
Jeff, I bolted Flat plate with 2" round tube steel, welded to them, about 3" long to the side of my truck boxes when I had them. You can the slide just slightly smaller steel pipes inside of them, that reach the ground, jack up your boxes a couple of inches from inside the box, and either have set bolts that will hold the pipes at the desired height, or holes drilled where you can slide a bolt to hold in place. When all 4, front and back are on sturdy ground, just drive your Truck out. Easy to install back on Truck at a later date.
balzakjeff Posted - 04/07/2016 : 08:48:38 AM
Anybody come up with slick way to make boxes easy to remove for summer? Anybody set one up like a pickup camper with bar under the truck and jacks to make it easy to remove?

CAM Posted - 04/07/2016 : 05:35:34 AM
I had a dog box on a Toyota Tacoma for years. I used four turnbuckles, one in each corner, and never had any problems.
adios00 Posted - 04/06/2016 : 11:10:57 PM
quote:
Originally posted by TrailsEnd

We use topper clamps to hold our boxes on...no need to drill holes in your truck using these...



If you're still alive, can you elaborate? I've got topper clamps but not visualizing it...
EllieRose Posted - 12/26/2007 : 06:35:00 AM
We ended up using turnbuckles and a couple of tie downs for this weekend. We were rather stumped on what to do- the one thing we didn't really plan out was attaching the box. It held very well on a 1,000 mile trip over Christmas. It ended up being exactly as Roy suggested- about 6" right over the inner edge of the box.
Gonetodogs- I'll post a pic of mine later today- it's on a 2007 Ford Ranger and I can give you and idea of what we did if you want to email me. I't really solid, roomy and easy to work with- slides right onto the box. I just need to paint it and trim it out a bit now that my big road trip is done.
TrailsEnd Posted - 12/24/2007 : 9:25:09 PM
We use topper clamps to hold our boxes on...no need to drill holes in your truck using these...
RSmith Posted - 12/24/2007 : 8:05:17 PM
Fairly simple with a 'topper' style box.

I would go a little bit wider than the existing bed; maybe 6" on either side. This gives the dog a little bit more room since most 1/4 ton or 1/2 ton beds are a bit narrower than full ton size P/U's.
But, you build the bottom frame with 2X4's layed 'flat' so you can drill 6 descent size holes down through and simply bolt to the top/rails of your bed. Use the nylon non-slip nuts and preferably stainless bolts so they don't rust.

The great thing about these set-ups you can store a bunch of stuff right under your boxes in the bed.

This set-up worked great for me for years on an S-10.



gonetodogs Posted - 12/24/2007 : 3:42:39 PM
I would also like to build a dog box for my 2001 Mazda B4000. I am unsure of how to make it road worthy however, and am interested in any tips anyone may have.

Merry Mushing!

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